One of my favorite materials is vetiver, and I have always loved perfumes that are simply named vetiver. Not because that is the only note in the perfume, but because the formula is designed to accentuate different facets of this rich and complex material.
Over the years, I have used vetiver in many different perfumes as a supporting note, from Velouria and Nefertiti in the Maher Olfactive line to La Petite Prairie and Lost Valley in the Chatillon Lux line. At one point, I worked with Dave to create Benton Park for American Perfumer, which combined a Haitian-vetiver-forward composition with a green, minty tuberose accord to pull out those facets of vetiver in the composition that most closely echoes the classic vetiver-titled perfumes.
However, after years of contemplation, I finally have created a perfume composition that accomplishes what I wanted to create with a perfume titled Vetiver Eau de Parfum for the Maher Olfactive line. It is meant to celebrate the vetiver by using supporting notes that accentuate different notes within the vetiver essential oil, resulting in a fully realized perfume composition that is still wholly vetiver-centric.
The Vetiver Note
To begin with, I selected a Bourbon vetiver, the classic, most iconic vetiver from the Reunion Islands, to begin this composition. It is the first thing that pops into my scent memories when I think of vetiver. It has woody aspects, some leathery facets, and a bright floral opening with some hints of citrus that add some sparkle.
The Woody Note
In this regard, the Bourbon vetiver handles this mostly on its own, with a dose of Iso E Super to add some texture and help it breathe plus acylated patchouli to add some richness and depth without the dirty, rubbery aspects of a regular patchouli. Both of these supporting materials are used very sparingly in small doses. Finally, I use the musks Onestolide and Exaltone to add to the woody aspects and ensure the base note retains its longevity.
Citrus in the Opening
For the opening, I used a smaller dose of green mandarin essential oil to bring out the tartness in the opening. Additionally, I used a petitgrain bigarade essential oil due to its bitter orange and woody aspects, but also because it has some floral notes to it that fit in splendidly with the foral notes in the Bourbon vetiver. Which leads us to…
The Floral and Leather Notes
In addition to petitgrain, I also used a neroli absolute that also bridges between citrus and floral, with its bright, cheerful white floral note serving as a bridge between the floral opening and the more meaty middle notes. Additionally, an osmanthus absolute adds some richness to the fruity aspect, but more importantly has a leathery floral note. When I created Crystal Moon, I spoke about how I wanted to use osmantus in that composition to pull out the peachy notes that often get overlooked because so many use osmanthus for leather.
In this instance, I selected osmanthus specifically for its leather notes. There is an underlying green leathery note in vetiver that is reminiscent of the classic green leather material isobutyl quinoline, but I decided that osmanthus would be a more subtle way to pull it out in manner that further exalts the multifaceted vetiver material. However, I did use isobutyl quinoline’s more gentle cousin, 6 methyl quinoline, in a microdose to add a subtle shade without being perceptable.
Finally, I used a cassis accord and davana essential oil to further pull out those fruity, floral leather notes, and then further accentuated it with an orris tincture that really gives weight to this facet of the material without taking the spotlight away.
The Result?
In the end, this composition carries on the tradition of houses like Guerlain and Tom Ford, but many have found its closest analog to be Vetyverio by Diptyque, although much more natural smelling and maybe more leathery/floral forward due to the materials used, but perhaps composed with somewhat similar end goals in mind.
I have been so pleased with the feedback I have received with this perfume. It wears beautifully on skin, refined and not domineering, something that suits the warm summer months but has the backbone for fall and even winter.
It will be officially for sale on July 31, and I am beyond excited to share it with you.
Scent Notes by Shawn Maher 